When I finally finished my month of work up in New York, I returned to Austin with Mexican on my mind. My craving for melty cheese took us to the place Texas Monthly deemed the “grand dame” of Texas Mexican restaurants: Fonda San Miguel.
Texas Mexican, by which we mean a Mexican restaurant located in Texas, is not to be confused with Tex-Mex. Not that there’s anything wrong with Tex-Mex, but you wouldn’t typically find heavenly fried oysters like this or octopus tostadas (above) at your typical Tex-Mex joint.
Even at the grand dame, though, they’re not above serving some melty cheese.
The real hero at Fonda San Miguel, though, is the homemade corn tortilla. It’s good to be back home.